Modem needs to be reset twice a day.

What would cause such low power down stream? Is this a wiring issue from inside the home? This is my Mothers modem stats. Trying to give her some help. It's defiantly not a home run installation all phone have filters. Older style NID.

Broadband: CONNECTED
Internet Service Provider: CONNECTED

PPP Status
PPP Parameter Status
User Name: verizon1
PPP Type: PPPoE
LCP State: UP
IPCP State: UP
Authentication Failures: 0
Session Time: 0 Days, 4H:2M:8S
Packets Sent: 3040
Packets Received: 3188

Broadband Status
Broadband Parameter Status
VPI: 0
VCI: 35
Broadband Mode Setting: MULTIMODE
Broadband Negotiated Mode: G.DMT
Connection Status: CONNECTED
Downstream Speed: 3360 Kbps
Upstream Speed: 864 Kbps
Retrains: 0
Retrain Timer: 0 Days, 4H:4M:47S
ATM QoS class: UBR
Near End CRC Errors Interleave: 14
Near End CRC Errors Fastpath : N/A
Far End CRC Errors Interleave : 0
Far End CRC Errors Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Near End CRC Interleave : 17
30 Minute Near End CRC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Far End CRC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Far End CRC Fastpath : N/A
Near End RS FEC Interleave : 0
Near End RS FEC Fastpath : N/A
Far End RS FEC Interleave : 0
Far End RS FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Near End FEC Interleave : 6
30 Minute Near End FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Far End FEC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Far End FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Discarded Packets Downstream : 0
30 Minute Discarded Packets Upstream : 0
SNR Downstream : 9 dB
SNR Upstream : 6 dB
Attenuation Downstream : 15 dB
Attenuation Upstream : 7 dB
Power Downstream -4.1 dBm
Power Upstream 4.2 dBm

Accepted answers

smith6612

When replacing the line from the NID to where your home's wiring is connected, you simply need to connect the Blue to Red, and Blue-White to Green. From there, run that connection into your splitter. Be sure to obey polarity as some devices are sensitive to reversing the polarity of the line, and it's also best to follow telco standards should support ever be needed.

See this page: http://wire-your-phones.com/

The method I use is non-standard when it comes to wiring for homeruns, but it makes everything very easy to locate and it's easy to reverse without making a big mess.

Once at the splitter, you then do the splitting. To install a homerun, first start off by conecting all of the jacks to the Phone section. Make use of a "common cable" that already runs to the jack bundles. This filters out the entire house right away. Next, locate the wire that goes to the jack where your DSL modem is located, and find it's secondary cable pair. This will either be Yellow/Black or Orange/Orange-White, and this must not lead to any other jack in the house. Expose the secondary pair's copper and connect this to the DSL section. At the jack where the DSL modem is connected into, take the wiring (Red/Green) and disconnect it, putting electrical tape over the copper ends so they do not short or cause problems. Then, take the secondary pair (Yellow/Black or Orange/Orange-white) and connect this to the point of the jack where the primary pair was connected to. Connect it like this:

Red/Blue --> Yellow/Orange instead.

Green/Blue-White --> Black/Orange-White instead.

Once connected, the DSL modem should sync at the same speed, and likely with better statistics. You should be able to remove the microfilters from the phones, and pick up the phone without interrupting the DSL or hearing static on the line.

This is the way I approach homerun installs, but approach this in the way that is works the best in your situation. Just be sure to follow polarity, and keep in mind your end goal to avoid sending the DSL signal down any other jack except for the one you want DSL at.

It's a bit of work, but if you want you can always call Verizon down to install one. They should be able to do these for free if you're having DSL trouble.

All comments

smith6612

A negative power level on the downstream is a bug where the modem isn't getting the correct statistics from the DSLAM. In addition, the upstream power of 6dB, despite the short line to me suggests either two things. First of all, if the downstream power level is of any indication, you have a bad line. Otherwise, 6dB upstream means you are connected to a Catena DSLAM (these are very old. 2000-2002 old) and that statistic will always be stuck there.

The next time the line drops, before rebooting the modem, please get those same statistics for us. There isn't enough info posted to determine where you're dropping out, but it's very likely due to wiring.

wiggie116

Ok I will. I was checking out the wiring and it's a mess. All the lines are just twisted together (by hand) to inside drop which comes from an older style NID. I'm going to pick up a DSL splitter and install a home run. The outside drop is a direct burial line from the PED ( no conduit) I believe that's then name for it. It's green around two feet off the ground. That I can not touch as it belongs to verizon. We also bought a new combo Actiontec modem for her. Next Tuesday I'll post the new stats. I have feeling it could be that old underground pdrop. House was built in 1986 and she doesn't remember it being replaced.

smith6612

Installing a home run sounds like a plan. If the wires for the entire home (and the jacks are not daisy chained) are hand twisted together, that could be a good source of noise if they are not making good contact. A punch down block or wiring terminal can help to clear that up if it is a big mess.

wiggie116

I have a bunch down block I'm not using in the basement that the VZ tech left. It's a giant ball of wires over there. My moms old school she still has a bunch wired phones through out the house and a set wireless base phones. I have question about the dsl splitter. It's just a hole home filter right? One side is data, and the other is voice. But the line coming in now is a just single pair red/green. I was going to replace the single line from the NID with a cat3 outdoor wire I have laying around the house. Do I need to hook up both the orange pair and the blue pair at the interface. Making one side voice and one side data before it comes to the splitter? At the interface it doesn't have the option like mine does for voice and data, but it does have yellow/black and red/green connection options. That's were I get confused do I just hook up the one pair outside and then the splitter separates data and the voice from there?

I'll probably have a better idea once I get that splitter in my hands. The only reason i want to use the splitter is to eliminate all the filters she has in the house. Other wise I would just run a new line right to the interface.

smith6612

See this page: http://wire-your-phones.com/

The method I use is non-standard when it comes to wiring for homeruns, but it makes everything very easy to locate and it's easy to reverse without making a big mess.

Red/Blue --> Yellow/Orange instead.

Green/Blue-White --> Black/Orange-White instead.

It's a bit of work, but if you want you can always call Verizon down to install one. They should be able to do these for free if you're having DSL trouble.

wiggie116

Thanks smith, I tried to get my parents to call but they won't. They have very little patients. I'm pretty sure I can get it done. If there is still problem after I install the home run. She can add me to the account and I'll call. My nephew told me it's been going on for 6 months now. I'll post back Tuesday with the new info.

wiggie116

Here are the stats after the home run. I didn't use the DSL splitter because I couldn't find one in stock. I just ran a cat 3 out to the NID. I double the upstream. Do they look any better? SNR upstream still low. I'm not sure what type of equipment she's attach to. Definitely could be older like you said.

wiggie116

By the way that's a screen shot from my phone..Sorry..

wiggie116

Here the new trans stats. They could not be seen with that screen shot. I've notice that broadband mode change from GDMT to T1.413. What does that mean. Older style equipment?

Connection Status
Connection Status
Broadband: CONNECTED
Internet Service Provider: CONNECTED

PPP Status
PPP Parameter Status
User Name:
PPP Type: PPPoE
LCP State: UP
IPCP State: UP
Authentication Failures: 0
Session Time: 0 Days, 21H:25M:26S
Packets Sent: 1181028
Packets Received: 2318890

Broadband Status
Broadband Parameter Status
VPI: 0
VCI: 35
Broadband Mode Setting: MULTIMODE
Broadband Negotiated Mode: T1.413
Connection Status: CONNECTED
Downstream Speed: 3360 Kbps
Upstream Speed: 864 Kbps
Retrains: 0
Retrain Timer: 0 Days, 21H:23M:37S
ATM QoS class: UBR
Near End CRC Errors Interleave: 0
Near End CRC Errors Fastpath : N/A
Far End CRC Errors Interleave : 15
Far End CRC Errors Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Near End CRC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Near End CRC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Far End CRC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Far End CRC Fastpath : N/A
Near End RS FEC Interleave : 0
Near End RS FEC Fastpath : N/A
Far End RS FEC Interleave : 0
Far End RS FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Near End FEC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Near End FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Far End FEC Interleave : 0
30 Minute Far End FEC Fastpath : N/A
30 Minute Discarded Packets Downstream : 0
30 Minute Discarded Packets Upstream : 0
SNR Downstream : 32 dB
SNR Upstream : 6 dB
Attenuation Downstream : 15 dB
Attenuation Upstream : 7 dB
Power Downstream 17 dBm
Power Upstream 3.9 dBm

wiggie116

After the home run the modem has not had to be reset. So everthing is working fine for the last week. Thanks Smith for the help on the wiring info.