Not getting 4 - 7 mbps
c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

I have the same issue as everyone else.  I'm paying for 4 to 7 mbps download speed, but I only get ~4 mbps during the day, and less than 1 mbps in the evenings.  I still have my original verizon Westell Wirespeed modem (Verizon didn't upgrade my modem when I upgraded my plan).  Any pointers?

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1 Solution
c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

All,

I think I found my problem.  After reading elsewhere on modem/router issues, I started taking a closer look at my own router (Cisco/Linksys E2000).  On the Advanced Wireless Settings page, there is a setting for Transmission Rate.  It was set to 5.5mbps, which should have been fine, since the fastest I had seen was just over 4mbps.  I changed this to 54mbps, and instantly saw download speeds of over 5mbps.  I also read a suggestion to change my Beacon Interval to 75 (default on my Linksys was 100), and the RTS Threshold to 2304 (default was 2347).  After these changes, I'm seeing download speeds of ~6.5mbps.

This all happened at about 10:45PM on a Sunday night.  I'll have to monitor my speeds over the next week, to see the overall effects, but even at the quietest moments, I never saw over ~4.2mbps until tonight, so this is very promising.  Also, even though I made the changes on the Advanced Wireless Settings page of my router, I had the same improvements with a CAT5 direct connection to my router.  Since many of us have had similar stink-o download rates, I hope others get a chance to check their router settings, and see if it's the router that is causing the bottleneck, and not Verizon.  If you do see changes, please post them.

I'll post back in a few days, after I get some more testing done.

Thanks,

Joseph

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27 Replies
dslr595148
Community Leader
Community Leader

#1 What is the exact model of that modem?

#2 What is the brand and model of your router?

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Modem is Westell Wirespeed B90-210015-04, build date 11/2003.  Yep, it's old, but Verizon didn't send me a newer modem when I upgraded my service (even though their installation instructions suggested getting a new modem).

Router is Linksys E2000.  Before that, I had a Linksys WRT54G, but the E2000 offered gigabit connections for the hard-wired ports, so I figured I would go ahead and upgrade.

My PCs run Win7 and WinXP, but this is also affecting Netflix instant downloads to my XBox, so it's not just a Windows problem.  I've scanned for viruses and spyware, and I'm clean.

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jmw1950
Specialist - Level 2

Please post you transceiver statrstics

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dslr595148
Community Leader
Community Leader

Ok.

You will need to get the transceiver statrstics from the modem and post them.

As how to get them, here are your options...

#1 PC with a LAN Static IP Setup, connected to modem.

#2 PC with two NICs wtth LAN Static IP Setup, connected to a Hub/Switch that is connected to the modem.

---

Directions....

#1 No matter optoin what you want to do:

a) Go to

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/7553

#2 Download that Tool, addressed that FAQ.

--

Directions for PC with a LAN Static IP Setup, connected to modem:

#1 After download the tool, disconnect your computer from behind the router.

#2 Setup a Static IP on for that wired NIC of computer.

Here are the steps to do so on Windows XP...

a) Go to Start -> Control Panel -> Network Connections.

b) Right click on the NIC and select properties.

c) Select properties

d) Click Internet Protocol(TCP/IP) and then the Properties button.

e) Select, Use the following IP Address.

f) Enter in 192.168.2.6 for the IP Address and enter in 255.255.255.0 as the subnet mask.

g) Press Ok, Ok, Close.

#3 Disconnect your router from the modem.

#4 Connect your computer to the modem.

#5 Install that tool addressed in the FAQ.

#6


Once installed, don't forget to use ** CTRL-ALT-F7 ** to reveal several "hidden" tabs, the signal levels and error counters, so forth.

#7 Go to the DSL Tab.

#8 Get the data from there.

#9 When done getting the data from there...

a) Disconnect the computer from the modem.

b) Connect the router to the modem.

c) Change the computer back to use DHCP.

d) Connect the computer back to behind the router.

e) Post the info that you saw with that tool.

---

Directions for PC with two NICs wtth LAN Static IP Setup, connected to a Hub/Switch that is connected to the modem.

#1 Disconnect your router from the modem.

#2 The other end of the wire that was connected to the router, connects to the port next to the Uplink Port of the Hub/Switch.

#3 Connect a wire to the router's WAN port. This wire goes to any other port but the Uplink or the port in use by the modem.

#4 On a wired NIC on your computer, set a Static IP and use those settings that I gave in my first example.

#5 Connect that wired NIC to the any other port other than the uplink port or the port(s) in use.

#6 Install that Tool addressed in the FAQ.

#7


Once installed, don't forget to use ** CTRL-ALT-F7 ** to reveal several "hidden" tabs, the signal levels and error counters, so forth.



#8 Go to the DSL Tab.

#9 Get the data from there.

#10 Post the info that you see in there.

#11 Points to http://www.dslreports.com/faq/7267 (the Recommended method that the FAQ owner wrote about), and quotes an important fact.


For security precautions, unbind File and Print Sharing and the Client for Microsoft Networks from the second NIC.
c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Sorry, guys, ran out of time tonight.  I'm having trouble connecting to my modem, so I'll work on it tomorrow.  Thanks for the tips, dslr595148; I know they'll come in handy.  I did try to connect to the modem, but didn't see it at 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.254 (which I thought were default addresses for the Westell).  Didn't try the 192.168.2.X subnet, though.  I'll let you know what I find.

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Okay, for my upload/download stats, here's what I have:

Noise:  N/A  12.0

Output Power:  N/A  N/A

Attenuation:  N/A  25.0

Data Rate:  864  7616

I also found the following error statistics on another tab:

FEC Errors:  8905

CRC Errors:  24

HEC Errors:  688

Signal Lost:  0

Frame Loss:  0

FEC = Frame Error Checksum

CRC = Cyclic Redundancy Checksum

HEC = Header Error Checksum

From another forum, it looks like these are corrected errors (errors that are detected and corrected before being processed).  Also, my modem apparently does not provide any upload stats, which is why I have a bunch of N/A entries above.

Finally, my modem software version is 1.00.35, model B90-210015-04, and transceiver version MR7 07.01.254.

On www.speedtest.net, I have a ping time of 41ms, download speed of 0.80Mbps, and upload speed of 0.73Mbps at 7:30PM Pacific Time.

So, any thoughts on anything that can reveal any possible solutions?  It all looks grand, but it's not that different from any of the other posts on here talking about slow download speeds.  At least I'm in good company.

Anyone have any experience, good or bad, with MediaCom?  They're my other local internet provider, but I have no experience with a cable modem.  But if I'm only getting a tenth of the speed I should be, maybe it's time to look.

Thanks for letting me grumble.

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Just a note of interest.  I checked my connection speeds all night long.  The best that I saw was just over 1Mbps, until 11:01.  Once I was past the "magic hour", my speeds jumped up to 4Mbps.  Not anywhere near the 7Mbps I'm paying for, though.

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dslr595148
Community Leader
Community Leader

Ok.

#1 In the Linksys go to Wireless -> Basic Wireless Settings

#2 Is Wireless enabled?

#3 If so, in the Linksys go to Wireless -> Wireless Security

#4 It is enabled, right?

#5 If Wireless Security is not Disabled, what is it set to?

For security/privacy reasons, please do not post the Key/Passphrase.

#6 In the router go to Administration-> Management

#7 What is the current setting for UPnP?

#8 Do you have at least two special computers that support UPnP where you can not define the ports that they use?

A perfect example. At least two game consoles. Any two (Two Xboxes, two Playstations, One Xbox and one Playstation).

#9 In the router go to Status -> Router

#10 What is the current firmware version on your router?

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

#2 Is Wireless enabled?

Yes

#4 It is enabled, right?

Yes

#5 If Wireless Security is not Disabled, what is it set to?

WEP

#7 What is the current setting for UPnP?

Disabled

#8 Do you have at least two special computers that support UPnP where you can not define the ports that they use?

No

#10 What is the current firmware version on your router?

v1.0.00 build 026<script type="text/javascript">// replace_date("Jan. 27, 2010"); // </script> Jan 27, 2010

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johnskii
Enthusiast - Level 2

I know people are trying to help but this is ridiculous! A majority of the people out there are paying for speeds they are not receiving and don't know it. Plus the ones that do are asked to "jump through hoops" in hopes of trying to find a problem on their end. If a utility or business can not provide a service for which they claim they can refunds should be given to the consumer. It is simple as that. If I buy a car and I am told and given printed documentation that is has 300 horse power it better not have 100 horse power or legal action will follow.{please keep it relevant}

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insidious234
Enthusiast - Level 2

Well, I'd have to agree with you, John. I've had Verizon for a few years and never really had a problem until about 5-6 months ago. I haven't received any information at all from Verizon regarding these issues such as traffic or whatever it may be. I used to get 6-7 Mbs and am now only getting 1 Mb at best. $42.00 for 1 mb isn't very fun. That and lately my connection has been dropping like mad. Makes it impossible for gaming or anything at all. If this continues by the time my contract is up, I'm going to have to switch providers.

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dslr595148
Community Leader
Community Leader

Ok.

This a trouble shooting step that you could do...

Bypass the router.

#1 A software firewall must be installed and enabled for your computer.

#2 I would not recommending doing this test when other people at your location want to have Intenet Access, so the next step after making sure there is a software installed and enabled on your computer, before doing anything else is finding the time to do this 24 hour test.

---

If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is PPPoE, example...

#1 In the router at Staus -> Router press disconnect

#2 Disconnect the router from the modem.

#3 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.

#4 Connect that computer to the modem.

#5 Setup a PPPoE Client on that computer.

This means following the directions at

a)

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/283070

if using Windows XP.

b) http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/Create-a-PPPoE-connection-to-the-Internet

If using Windows Vista OR Windows 7.

#6 Use the PPPoE client on your computer.

--

If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is Static IP, example...

#1 Disconnect the router from the modem.

#2 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.

#3 Connect that computer to the modem.

#4 Setup the Static IP, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway that you were assigned by Verizon.

For example I was assinged IP Address that starts with 71.242 with the Subnet Mask of 255.255.255.0, and the Default Gateway that starts with 71.242

#5 Setup at least two DNS Servers, for your computer to use.

--

If in the Linksys at Staus -> Router if the connection type is DHCP, example...

#1 Press the release button in the router at Staus -> Router

#2 Disconnect the router from the modem.

#3 Release the IP Address of your computer.

For example if on Windows XP

a) Go to Start -> Run.

b) Type in cmd and press enter.

c) In the new window, called the command prompt, type in ipconfig /release and press enter.

#4 Disconnect a computer from behind the router.

#5 Connect that computer to the modem.

#6 Renew the IP Address of your computer.

At the command prompt, type in ipconfig /renew and press enter.

----

When done with the testing,,,

#1 If your connection type is PPPoE OR Static IP, have the router handle the PPPoE or Static IP.

#2 If the connecton type is DHCP:

a) Release the IP Address on your computer, before disconnecting your computer from the modem.

b) Renew the IP Address in the router, as need be.

#3 Please report back if the connection is the same or does it improve.

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dslr595148
Community Leader
Community Leader

Another trouble shooting step that you could do, if don't have only computers connected wireless to the router, is to turn off wireless for at least 24 hours.

When done with the test, reporting your findings.

This will only tell if the wireless of your router is limiting your speed. It will not test how fast the connection the router, can handle.

As what I meant by


It will not test how fast the connection the router, can handle.

For an example I point to:

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/lanwan-basics/30318-how-to-choose-the-right-router-for-you

I know when that article was published, but still it has important info in it.

Current router chart is at

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/component/option,com_chart/Itemid,189/

--

As what I meant by


This will only tell if the wireless of your router is limiting your speed

If you haven't heard/read, WEP has been hacked so badly that it can broken into in about 1 to 2 minutes.

Source: http://www.grc.com/sn/sn-089.htm

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

dslr595148,

I'll give it a go to take the router out of the loop, but I'm not sure Verizon will let me do that.  In order to get the router working originally, I had to clone my PC's MAC address onto the router.  That PC went away a long time ago, so I made sure to record my router settings, just in case it ever dies on me.  So unless you know how I can clone the MAC address onto my current laptop, or you know how I can get around the MAC restriction, I can't take the router out of the loop.  I did connect directly to the router, though, and turned off wireless, but saw no performance difference.  I understand that Verizon does things a bit differently between east coast and west coast; I'm in SoCal, and have my router set up as DHCP, if it makes a difference.

I tried reading your article on WEP security, but unfortunately I found it completely unreadable.  But, yeah, if God and Steve Gibson say it must feel good to help others who drive me nuts when they don't make backups, then, like, it must be cool.  Yeah!  So I'll have to google it, and if I find out you're onto something, I'll make some security changes.

Keep the tips coming.  I'll post my findings as I make 'em.

Thanks,

Joseph

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

dslr595148,

Just read up on WEP vs WPA vs WPA2 security settings.  While far from being a pro, I did follow your advice and updated to WPA2.  Not as hard as I was expecting, actually, although now I'll have to read up on AES vs TKIP (always something).  Thanks for the tip!

Still working on taking the router out of the loop.  Long day, so it will have to wait for tomorrow.

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smith6612
Community Leader
Community Leader

WPA2-AES would be what you want. TKIP is used mainly with WPA.

c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Actually, I agree; I think WPA2-AES is what I want.  From my (limited) reading, WPA2-TKIP has some security issues, some of them being carry-overs from WEP.  My PCs (one Win7, one WinXP) both let me choose WPA2 Personal.  What the heck does THAT mean?!?  Can I set WPA2-AES on my wireless router, and still set WPA2 Personal on my PCs?  Will that give me the security I want, and still allow me to access my own network?  Yeah, I know, newbie question, but I'm starting to reach beyond my knowledge base (WEP was fine until I was told otherwise).  More testing tomorrow ...

Thanks,

Joseph

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

As a side note, I think it's a bit amusing that this started as a throughput thread, and has moved over to wireless security.  Infinitely fascinating to me (thanks to all the security feedback, by the way), but for those who are monitoring the thread, we do need to get back on topic.  I know, the thought was that someone was tapping into my wireless network and stealing my bandwidth, but that's not happening anymore, right?  Right?!?

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Okay, I was able to connect directly to mi NID and run some tests.  With my house wiring, I got:

Noise Margin:    N/A  12.5

Output Power:    N/A  N/A

Attenuation:    N/A  25.0

Data Rate:    864  7616

With the direct connection, I got:

Noise Margin:    N/A  13.5

Output Power:    N/A  N/A

Attenuation:    N/A  23.5

Data Rate:    864  7616

So, a bit higher noise margin, and a bit lower attenuation, when I connected directly to the NID.  I then ran a speed test and got the following with my house wiring:

Download:  1.24mbps

Upload:    0.73mbps

Ping:  48ms

With the direct connect, I got:

Download:    1.10mbps

Upload:  0.73mbps

Ping:    47ms

I've found that the speed tests tend to vary from test to test, so even though I saw a decrease when I connected directly to my NID, the bottom line is that there is no real  difference in the speed tests.  I'd have to do a lot more testing to get any real averaging for the two.  I will say that I'm not going to see a significant difference if I put in a POTS splitter in my NID and rewire the house, though.  Bummer.

I still need to take my router out of the loop, so that will be my next step.

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c0lnag0
Enthusiast - Level 3

Forgot to specify on my last post.  On my modem tests, there are two sets of numbers for each parameter.  The first number is for uploads, and the second number is for downloads.  My modem (Westell WireSpeed B90/2100) doesn't report any values for the upload fields, or output power for download.  Other modems do, so your fields might look very different from mine.

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