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i used to have basic HSI, and was getting about 3Mb/s down 0.60Mb/s upload... after the "upgrade", i'm hitting 3.87Mb/s download and 0.73Mb/s upload... how is that faster...? if i plug in my line directly to the phone jack to the modem bypassing the filter and house line, it jumps to 4.90Mb/s download 0.86Mb/s upload... on the phone with the verizon rep, i was promised 10Mb/s or more... speedtest . net says my local average is 10Mb/s...
is it my house wireing...? should i rewire it myself, or ask verizon to do it...? i'm trying to play UMvC3 and it's LAGGY!!!... what should i do..? cable internet...?
What modem/router do you have? Let's take a look at your Transceiver statistics, since they often say a lot as to how the line's doing.
i don't know what transceiver statistics is...
On the ActionTec visit http://192.168.1.1/ and click on Status at the top of the page. From that point, you should be taken to a page that displays your DSL line Attenuation, SN Margin, speed, power levels, so on and so fourth. If not, there should be a DSL Status link in the navigation that takes you to the page we're looking for. If you can find that information, copy/paste the contents of that page here so we can see them.
The logins for the ActionTecs are typically one of the following:
DSL Mode Setting: auto
DSL Negotiated Mode: ADSL2+
Connection Status: Showtime
Speed (down/up): 5403/1034Kbps
ATM QoS class: UBR
Output Power (Downstream/Upstream): 12.2 / 19.2 dBm
Attainable Rate (Downstream/Upstream): 6552 / 1095 Kbps
HEC Errors (Downstream/Upstream): 3 / 10
OCD Errors (Downstream/Upstream): 0 / 0
LCD Errors (Downstream/Upstream): 0 / 0
SNR Margin (Downstream/Upstream): 6.6 / 9.8 dB
Attenuation (Downstream/Upstream): 43.5 / 21.7 dB
i dunno if that's going to come out legible... bah, i had to do it all over again.... FML...
That would be it!
It looks like Verizon has provisioned you for at least 10Mbps/1Mbps but the line doesn't have the capacity in it's current state to achieve that. So, you essentially have a 4Mbps/900kbps connection.
Do you by any chance have access to your NID? I'd like to see if the statistics are any better out at the NID or if this is a case where Verizon might have to see if this is simply due to length or if it's some bad wiring somewhere. I'm betting on this being an issue with length since nothing right now is suggesting lower quality wire. Your NID is often found near your electrical service meter/panel/enterenace, but here's an FAQ for you: http://www.dslreports.com/faq/1317 . There is no AC power out at the NID so consider bringing an extension cord and a wireless device with you when you head outside.
i have access to my NID yes... it doesn't look as complicated and wired up like the one in that pic... it only has one line running thru it and that's it... it's also on the back of the house... about 25' or more away from the house phone jack... should i move it and re-wire it myself, or will verizon help me out there...?
i'll test it tomorrow if i find a long enough extension cord...
since the phone line only uses two wires to the phone jack, can't i just double it up outside and inside...? like two wires per each contact from the phone line...???
If the NID isn't in a problem area it is unlike the NID will be moved by Verizon. It needs to be located near your electrical ground since the NID itself ties into the ground. As such, I wouldn't move it for risk of violating a wiring code or getting Verizon upset since it does belong to them as a demarc between their responsibility and your responsibility. NIDs can be removed from the house temporarily if things such as siding or remodeling is done but moves typically require them to come out and do, not that you can't of course!
See what you can do for us as far as finding out your statistics. I'm confused about what you meant in the last section of your post, but if what you meant was a matter of tying the modem and the house line directly into a "split" of the feed from the NID, that's something I would avoid doing. The NID test only takes a few minutes and it will knock out your phone service as a phone will not be connected (as such, line will keep ringing), but that is what we want. If we can get just the modem online with no additional home wiring, preferably using the modem's supplied cable since it is a quality cable, that would rule out any issue inside of the house. Introducing flat extension cable or home wiring may skew the stats off. No way for sure to know this from a forum post but it never hurts to be on the safe side (which is why I post cautiously!).
If you have an older style NID without the capability of using a test jack, and instead one of the older ones that uses screws, bolts, or other tie-down/punch methods, you will need to consider disconnecting your home manually to fully test. Verizon can replace this for you with a newer box to make things easier, but as long as you connect the modem somehow to it (DSL modems don't care too much about polarity, so what is tip and what is ring doesn't really matter here. That's mainly an issue with phones), and then re-connect your home exactly the way it was before (each wire in it's proper connection as found) you're in good shape. The newer plastic NIDs are the easy ones as they simply disconnect the house when the test jack is revealed, or if it's like my NID, you disconnect the house by unplugging the RJ-11 jack from the test jack and then you're good to go for testing. Some NIDs kill the house as soon as you plug something into the jack as well.